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Editor’s Message CSANews© is published four times a year and is Copyright FALL 2022 by Medipac International Communications Inc., 180 Lesmill Road, Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T5. 416.441.7000. Subscription Price: $9.95 Canada; $20.00 U.S. and foreign. Single copy: $3.95. Prices include tax. Published by Medipac International Communications Inc. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and are not necessarily those of the CSA, Medipac International Communications Inc. or its affiliates, their Directors, Officers, or other employees or agents. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement No: 40063603. ISSN No: 1195-2393 Barb & Ron Kroll Dr. Robert MacMillan Shari McIntyre David McPherson Andrew Moore-Crispin Rex Vogel Robert Wiersema Judith Adam Gabrielle Bauer Donna Carter Michael Coren Jennifer Cox James Dolan Milan Korcok Karen Huestis Ron Steeves Garry McDonald Ted Popel Wendy Caban Bob Slack James Leroux Mike Legault John Foster James Carl Simpson Johanne Blain Michael MacKenzie Wallace Weylie President First Vice-President Second Vice-President Treasurer Secretary Past-President Director Director Director Director Director Executive Director Legal Counsel CSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS Editor CSA Editor President Art Director Director of Operations Marketing & Events Specialist J. Ross Quigley Karen Huestis Christopher Davidge Peter Prusa Paula McGovern Fran Castricone FALL 2022 | ISSUE 124 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS We acknowledge the support of the Government of Canada. Merv Magus Illustrator Wow! Snowbird travel is back with a vengeance. This year has been Medipac’s most successful Early Bird ever. I think that people have finally figured out that Medipac Travel Medical Insurance is, really, the only way to go. Medipac has attracted thousands of new clients who will start building their Claim-Free and Loyalty Discounts over the next few years and, happily, they will save a great deal of money over their snowbird “careers.” Another WOW! is the fantastic response to our recent survey. More than 10,000 snowbirds responded and some of the results are found later in this issue of CSANews. The results basically describe me – average age 77, five months in the South, own properties in both Canada and the U.S., own cars as well (mostly SUVs), buy Medipac Insurance and most are in very good to excellent health. Oh, we have had a few medical issues to resolve, but they have been resolved in our favour. As we embark on another wonderful year in the sunny South, it is important to understand that Covid is still out there and we must remain vigilant. Medipac has had very few Covid claims and that says a lot about the people whomMedipac insures. You ARE careful and most of you have had at least two vaccinations. But I do encourage you to not let Covid run your life. Go to the local restaurants, drop in to the bar for a light libation, as they say, and continue to golf and swim and shop and do what you normally did in past years. Life is fun, so make it so. Sincerely; J. Ross Quigley Editor CSANews | FALL 2022 | 3

Table of Contents FALL 2022 | ISSUE 124 OFFICIAL NEWS MAGAZINE OF THE CANADIAN SNOWBIRD ASSOCIATION Greenland to Canadian Arctic Archipelago Cruise Discover friendly communities, fascinating cultures and intriguing history on this scenic High Arctic journey. by Barb & Ron Kroll Three Unforgettable I-75 Friends Dave Hunter introduces us to three Special, Unforgettable friends whom he and his wife Kathy have met during their I-75 travels. by Dave Hunter Features 14 22 26 Extraordinary Places for Your Next Road Trip Trips are about the journey, not the destination…here are some extraordinary places to consider for your next road trip. by Rex Vogel Travel RV Lifestyle 4 | www.snowbirds.org

Table of Contents 48 Golf by David McPherson 50 CSA Online by Andrew Moore-Crispin 52 Gardening by Judith Adam 54 Food & Drink by Shari McIntyre 56 Fun & Games 57 Grins & Giggles 58 CSA Application 59 CSA Benefits 60 CSA Events 62 Fast Facts 3 Editor’s Message 6 Snowbird Alert 8 Bird Talk 10 President’s Message 11 Government Relations Report 12 Insurance by J. Ross Quigley 13 Opinion by Michael Coren 42 Health Pulse 44 Fitness by Jennifer Cox 45 Longevity by Jennifer Cox 46 Book Review by Robert Wiersema 36 30 Canada’s “Free” Health Care Comes at a Hefty Price Exploring a recent analysis of Canada’s health-care system by the Fraser Institute. by Milan Korcok Finance The confidence game Nine essential tips to make you feel mentally stronger and more empowered about your finances. by James Dolan Health Departments 38 Maintaining a Healthy Heart Important recommendations for reducing the risk of heart disease or controlling established heart conditions. by Dr. Robert MacMillan CSANews | FALL 2022 | 5

Snowbird Alert Source: www.newscanada.com Does the weather impact your arthritis? Is there truth to the idea that weather affects your joints, or is it an old wives’ tale? Scientists are not yet sure why, but studies do suggest that weather changes can increase pain. While controlling the weather isn’t an option, there are things that you can do to manage your pain. Start by tracking your symptoms. You can find a daily symptom tracker on the Arthritis Society’s website. Once you know what kind of weather affects you, follow these tips. If your symptoms are worse in warm weather: ▶ A cool shower or cold pack can help with pain and inflammation on hot days. ▶ It’s important to stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water and try to avoid caffeine, alcohol and sugary drinks that can contribute to dehydration. ▶ Try to avoid spending time in the sun during the hottest hours of the day. ▶ You can try a cooling ointment or spray that produces an icy feeling where it’s applied. If your symptoms are worse in colder weather: ▶ Take a warm bath or shower to help relieve the pain. ▶ Use a hot water bottle, warm pack or heating pad to soothe sore joints. ▶ Dress in multiple layers and cover exposed skin when outdoors. ▶ Try soaking your sore hands in warm water. Find more resources on heat or cold therapy at arthritis.ca. Did the Canada Revenue Agency really contact you? Last year, about 100 Canadians each day were victims of a scam! Many of these scams imitate the CRA’s programs and services to gain access to your personal and financial information. So, how can you avoid getting tricked? Here are three tips to avoid being scammed by someone pretending to be from the agency: 1. Know how to recognize a scam ▶ Scammers may insist that they need your personal or financial information, such as your SIN or credit card details, in order to send you a refund or collect a payment. Beware when you get any message requesting this information, whether it’s by telephone, mail, text or email. ▶ Callers may use threatening or coercive language to scare you into paying a phony debt. Know that the government will not demand immediate payment or threaten you with arrest. ▶ Fraudsters may urge you to visit a fake website, where you’re asked to verify your identity by entering personal information. The CRA will not email you a link asking you to fill in an online form with personal or financial details. 2. Protect yourself from identify theft ▶ Monitor your tax accounts by registering for My Account or My Business Account. Once registered, sign up for email notifications, which will notify you of changes made to your accounts, or if paper mail from the agency was returned. ▶ Use unique and complex passwords for your CRA and online banking accounts. You can set up a personal identification number (PIN) in My Account or with the help of one of the CRA call centre agents, to help confirm your identity for future calls. 3. When in doubt, check your online account ▶ If you receive a call, letter, email or text saying that you owe money or have received a refund, check your My Account or call the CRA at 1-800-959-8281. If you think that you may have been the victim of a scam or have been tricked into giving personal or financial information, contact your local police service. 6 | www.snowbirds.org

CSAnews.com is now live! All of your favourite issues are now available on the web, with an archive of every issue from the past six years. All recent feature stories will be available to read online on any device. Sort by subject, issue or column. CSANews | FALL 2022 | 7

Bird Talk  Dear Bird Talk, My father-in-law would like to transfer ownership of his property in Florida to my wife and me. We are thinking of joining the title with all three and, upon his passing, it would pass to my wife and me as surviving owners. Will that work to avoid capital gains or gift tax? Neil Garbe Bradford, ON Ed.: The objective can be accomplished, but you need professional help to avoid the pitfalls. Capital gains tax is not payable on the passing of your father-in-law, but is deferred until and unless the property is eventually sold. Only $16,000.00 in value can be given to each of you and your wife in a year (2022). However, with proper structuring, gift tax on the balance can be avoided.  Dear Bird Talk, I’ve just become aware of the form 8840. Do I need to complete the form if I don’t meet the substantial presence test for time in the U.S.? Also, can I add all three of my children to our U.S. property deed to avoid probate taxes when my husband and I die? Jodi Dewar Ontario Ed.: Completing and submitting the form 8840 is never going to hurt you. You are declaring a closer connection to Canada to avoid paying U.S. tax on your worldwide annual income. If you don’t meet the substantial presence test, you don’t NEED to file it, but it doesn’t hurt. It is also a good idea to make a copy and keep it in your border-crossing file folder with other proof-of-residency documents to help you cross the border into the United States. You can add one or all of your children to your deed, but you will require legal assistance in order to do it properly.  Dear Bird Talk, We were updating our will in Canada and our lawyer advised us to make a will in the U.S. as well, because we own property in Arizona. Is this common? If not, we do not want to spend thousands in the U.S. to do a second will. Does anyone have any ideas? Jeff Fearn Calgary, AB Ed.: It is probable that your property in the U.S. is held in joint tenancy such that it would pass by succession outside any will provisions. Secondly, if any other assets were held jointly, these would pass to the survivor. Our position is that there is no NEED for a U.S. will, although one does have the choice of making one. Provision can be made in the Canadian will to cover any U.S. assets, and that is sufficient.  Dear Bird Talk, I am reading my summer 2022 edition and I thought that it would be very interesting to follow your advice and obtain my travel history on i94.cbp.dhs.gov. I retrieved it, except that the results are totally inaccurate! Not sure what conclusion to reach! Best regards Louise Horlington (no location provided) Ed.: You are not the only snowbird who has reported inaccurate or incomplete departure and arrival information on the I94 website. As far as we know, it is still a work in progress and not every border agent at every border crossing is as diligent as the next one when it comes to recording information. You shouldn’t be concerned; it is just one of the MANY indicators that are used to permit entry.  Dear Bird Talk, My wife and I have a U.S. bank account (at Wells Fargo) in the U.S. We opened the account in about 2010, when we purchased property in Florida. We sold our Florida property in 2021 and changed our address with the bank to our permanent residence in Canada. We recently received an email from the bank indicating that we have to either close the account or provide a valid U.S. address. We no longer own property in the U.S., but we do “winter” in the U.S. for three months. Keeping a U.S. bank account would be very convenient for us for our spending in the U.S. Can you make any suggestions regarding how we can either keep our Wells Fargo account or such at another bank in the U.S. that would accept us as non-resident account holders? (There are no Canadian banks in the vicinity where we spend our winters.) Douglas Manning Kelowna, BC Ed.: I would suggest using the address of a friend or neighbour, with their permission of course, and switching your account settings to paperless. This can all be done using the Wells Fargo app on your smartphone or tablet. 8 | www.snowbirds.org

 Dear Bird Talk, My name is Arthur Bugelli and I will be 82 years old in October. This is my situation. My female partner and I have been an item for 22 years. We never got married. Our families accept us as we are. When we first met, there was only one grandchild; now she has seven and I have five. All of our grandkids call us Grandpa and Grandma. Now that they are getting older, they are graduating, etc. Since I am only allowed 180/2 days in the states, I am missing a lot of the celebrations, etc. I spend the winter in Florida, so I don’t have any days that I can spend with them for any occasion. I wonder if you know of any place or department that I can apply to, to have some extra days added to the 180/2. Arthur Bugelli Whitby, ON Ed.: There is no procedure to permit someone to extend the time which one can spend in the United States as requested. There are procedures for emergency situations, but these are not relevant here. If you get married and hire an immigration lawyer, you could come and go as you please. Bird Talk Featuring the letters & concerns of our members SEND YOUR LETTERS TO Bird Talk, c/o CSANews 180 Lesmill Road Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T5 or by e-mail: csawriteus@snowbirds.org Bird Talk  Dear Bird Talk, I want to purchase a car in Florida; do I need to obtain a Florida driver’s licence? Gilles St-Hilaire Lachine, QC Ed.: You do not need a Florida driver’s licence to purchase a vehicle, but you will have to shop around to obtain insurance.We have found that Allstate Insurance agents are quite capable of helping Canadian snowbirds obtain car insurance in the United States. They will recognize your Canadian driving record and insurance history, which will help you get the lowest price on your policy. Some of the other insurance companies which you see regularly advertising on television are a little more uneasy regarding Canadian driver’s licences.  Dear Bird Talk, I amCanadian andmy husband is American. We have a mobile home in Florida. We are buying a car inMichigan, driving it to Florida and leaving it there. Should my name be on the vehicle as well? My husband and I will both be driving it. Your thoughts? Lorraine Zorzit-Heacock Sault Ste. Marie, ON Ed.: You don’t have to be on the title, but you should be listed as a driver on the insurance policy. Contact your insurance agent or broker in Ontario and get a copy of your Motor Vehicle Record (MVR) and an Experience Letter, so that your driving and insurance coverage experience will be recognized in the United States.  Dear Bird Talk, I’m a CSAmember. I get every issue of CSANews. Let me get my two cents in on this “ArriveCAN app” issue. This regulation is right out of the Communist Manifesto if I’ve ever seen one. I am a Canadian Vietnam veteran who did four years in the U.S. Marine Corps during the 1960s. I did one tour of combat in Vietnam in 1965. I was the only Canadian in 1st Battalion 3rd Marine Division at that time. I was a cpl E4 weapons plt. Squad Leader. Our outfit was heavily sprayed with agent orange. I now have to go down to Great Falls, Montana once every year for an agent orange screening test, at the USAVeterans Clinic. I’m 81 years old, have never in my life been in trouble with the law. I got one speeding ticket 27 years ago. I have never owned a cell phone; I have never owned a computer. My choice. I have had all of my COVID-19 vaccinations plus two booster vaccinations. I went down for my tests in June 2022. Coming back, I showed all of my COVID-19 vaccination documents. The border officers toldme they would let me cross back into Canada this one time without the ArriveCAN app. But next time, without the ArriveCAN app, I will be punished by having to stay at home for 14 days or something like a $5,000.00 fine. Why is our government trying to make me into a criminal? I am an honorable senior and a veteran. Robert V. Bulmer Keoma, AB Ed.: We understand your frustration and don’t have an answer for you.We do acknowledge that once any government starts exercising new powers over you, it is almost always impossible to get them to relinquish them. There should be an alternative available for Canadian citizens who don’t own smartphones. CSANews | FALL 2022 | 9

President’s Message Karen Huestis CSA President As I write my column in the midst of what feels like a very hot Ontario summer, I know that it won’t be much longer until many of us are making our way to our winter destinations. By now, we have all seen and heard the horror stories surrounding many of our Canadian airports this summer. At the height of the pandemic, thousands of airline workers – from pilots to baggage handlers – were laid off, with Canadian air travel virtually disappearing. When many pandemic restrictions began to be relaxed, Canadians flocked back to airports in droves. Airlines responded to the increased demand by quickly ramping up scheduled flights. These same airlines, and the government agencies responsible for many of the day-to-day operations of our airports, did not have the staff in place to cope with the rapid increase in demand for air travel. This led to many of the cancellations and delays that have continued to frustrate air travellers throughout the spring and summer. In June, the Canadian Transportation Agency announced amendments to the Air Passenger Protection Regulations which will provide additional passenger refund requirements, effective September 8, 2022. Currently, these regulations require refunds to be provided for flight disruptions within control of the airlines. As of September 8, the new regulations require airlines to provide passengers with either a refund or rebooking – at the passenger’s choice – when a flight is cancelled or a lengthy delay occurs due to a situation outside of the airline’s control that prevents it from ensuring that passengers complete their itinerary within a reasonable time. These enhanced requirements will apply to all flights to, from and within Canada, including connecting flights. Specifically, the new regulations: ▶ Require airlines to provide a passenger affected by a cancellation or a lengthy delay due to a situation outside of the airline’s control with a confirmed reservation on the next available flight that is operated either by them or a partner airline, leaving within 48 hours of the departure time indicated on the passenger’s original ticket. If the airline cannot provide a confirmed reservation within this 48-hour period, it will be required to provide – at the passenger’s choice – a refund or rebooking ▶ Identify what costs must be refunded (unused portion of the ticket, which includes any unused add-on services paid for) ▶ Identify the payment method to be used for refunds (same as the original payment, e.g., a refund on the person’s credit card) ▶ Require airlines to provide a refund within 30 days The bottom line is that the new regulations mean that airlines will have to refund or rebook even when the issue is beyond their control for problems such as weather. Of course, none of this will make much difference unless these regulations are consistently enforced but, if the federal government is serious, this may go a long way toward helping to solve the problem of unrealistic flight scheduling plaguing many of Canada’s airports. With the upcoming general election in Quebec scheduled for October 3, the CSA will be preparing an election handbook which will be distributed to our members in Quebec and posted on our website. Our election handbooks contain important information such as our major advocacy issues in the province, as well as details about how to vote and key dates, to ensure that members have the information which they require in order to exercise their right to vote. Quebec electors can also visit Elections Quebec at www.electionsquebec.qc.ca prior to the election to ensure that their name is on the list of electors and that their address information is up to date. I would like to thank all of our members who have renewed their CSAmembership, as well as all of those who have made donations to our Special Action Fund. If you have not yet renewed your membership, I would encourage you to do so without delay. You can renew your membership through the mail, on the phone or on our website at www.snowbirds.org. We are the only association working on behalf of all travelling Canadians and there is certainly strength in numbers when dealing with our elected officials. We need your help! Bill and I hope that you enjoy what’s left of the nice weather as we begin preparations to travel once again to our winter homes. 10 | www.snowbirds.org

Government Relations Report Ron Steeves First Vice-President As we prepare for the upcoming travel season, it is essential to keep up to date on the latest cross-border travel measures in both Canada and the United States. As a reminder, all non-immigrant, non-U.S. citizen air travellers to the United States must be fully vaccinated and provide proof of vaccination status prior to boarding an airplane to the United States. In addition, foreign nationals must also be fully vaccinated to enter the United States at land ports of entry (POE) and ferry terminals. Exemptions, which are outlined on the CDC website (cdc.gov), are considered on a limited basis. Fully vaccinated travellers do not need to provide a pre-entry COVID-19 test result to enter the United States by air, land or sea. Since my last report, mandatory random COVID-19 testing has been reinstated for fully vaccinated travellers arriving in Canada by air to the four major Canadian airports – Vancouver, Calgary, Montreal and Toronto – effective July 19, 2022. To qualify as a fully vaccinated traveller to Canada, travellers must have been vaccinated with a primary series of a COVID-19 vaccine accepted by the Government of Canada for the purpose of travel at least 14 calendar days before entering Canada. All testing for air travellers, for both those who qualify as fully vaccinated and partially or unvaccinated people, is now completed outside of airports, either via an in-person appointment at select testing provider locations and pharmacies, or a virtual appointment for a self-swab test. Travellers who do not qualify as fully vaccinated, unless exempt, must continue to test on Day 1 and Day 8 of their mandatory 14-day quarantine. Air travellers who qualify as fully vaccinated and who are selected for mandatory random testing, as well as air travellers who do not qualify as fully vaccinated, will receive an email notification within 15 minutes of completing their customs declaration. The email will contain information to help them arrange for their test with a testing provider in their region. Unvaccinated travellers can complete their tests by either a virtual appointment or an in-person appointment with the test provider at their store, or at select pharmacies, and still respect their quarantine requirements. All travellers must continue to use ArriveCAN to provide mandatory travel information within 72 hours before their arrival in Canada, and/or before boarding a cruise ship destined for Canada, with few exceptions. All vaccinated travellers who are randomly selected for the border-testing surveillance program must complete arrival mandatory testing requirements. If your arrival test result is positive, you must go into isolation and follow the federal requirement to isolate for 10 days from the date of the test result. Your 10-day isolation is required, even if the isolation requirement is shorter in your province or territory. As these measures are subject to change, travellers are advised to visit travel.gc.ca/ travel-covid prior to their return to Canada. The CSA will continue to provide members with electronic updates via our member email advisories as government policies are amended. Canadian Snowbird Association staff is currently working on the ninth edition of our Canadian Travellers’ Report Card. The CSA’s report card, which we publish every two years, examines five key areas of importance to travellers.These areas include: the preservation of health coverage; access to emergency health care; prescription medication supply policies; voting rights; and availability of government information. We research the practices and policies of the federal, provincial and territorial governments and give each government an opportunity to comment. Each jurisdiction is then graded by an independent third party. The report card is an effective tool which CSA representatives utilize when lobbying provincial and territorial governments regarding these issues. The full version of the last edition of the Canadian Travellers’ Report Card can be accessed on our website, www.snowbirds.org. Lastly, we are looking for volunteer co-ordinators for the Nova Scotia, PEI and Ontario provincial picnic events which are held annually in Florida and sponsored by the CSA. Traditionally, these events have been held at Lake Seminole Park or Fort DeSoto Park near the Gulf of Mexico. If you are interested in becoming a volunteer co-ordinator, please contact me, Ron Steeves – CSA 1st Vice-President, at atlcsa@nbnet.nb.ca. Judy and I wish you safe travels. CSANews | FALL 2022 | 11

And the Survey Says… J. Ross Quigley CEO Medipac International Inc. Insurance …that we are getting – on average – a little younger, a little more educated and a little richer, and that we consider ourselves to be quite happy and healthy. With all the media talk of recessions, bad border crossings and a lower dollar, these things have all proven to be of little relevance to us. Our travel patterns have returned to be almost identical as before the pandemic. We – again on average – travel for four to six months and take three to four days to get to our Southern destination. As we age, we tend to spend a little longer in the South and the dollar/recession/border issues have caused a little more than 5% of us to change our future plans in any way. Seventy-five per cent of us travelled south to our primary destination last year. And 87% of us plan to travel south this year. COVID-19 concerns are still influencing the decision to travel for 25% of us, but that seems reasonable, when you consider what we’ve been through in the last two years. Only 1% of survey respondents have not received any shots for COVID-19, and the majority have had both their two shots and their two boosters. Bravo! Some of us reported experiencing a little more difficulty at the border due to frustrations arising from the ArriveCAN app, but most of us were able to make it work and returned to Canada without too much hassle. It will be interesting to see how things evolve this year. Almost 85% of you encouraged other snowbirds to join CSA, but 72% have not attended even one of our many events. What a shame! You are missing wonderful entertainment, an opportunity to meet old (and new) friends and important information about every aspect of being a snowbird. Sixty per cent of you have NOT contributed to CSA’s Special Action Fund, so don’t you think that it may be time to help out those who work so hard to help you? We were pleased to see that 33% have a Nexus card – that’s double the number in our last survey, so snowbirds are beginning to appreciate that the card can ease any border crossing and that it’s very useful at airports to avoid the huge lineups. Being a “Trusted Traveller” is just the right thing to do these days. The Form 8840 is filed by more than 60% of snowbirds and perhaps this is a wake-up call to those who don’t. Fighting with the IRS is much more onerous than filling out a form once a year. Please just do it, if you are a long-stay snowbird. The satisfying statistic, to us, is that 91% of survey respondents would recommend Medipac for travel insurance. This is a huge endorsement of Medipac’s services and a large thank you is in order. For those who have made a travel insurance claim, 91% have had a satisfactory, or better, claims experience. More than 45% said that their claims experience was “Excellent,” so there is still room for improvement, but we are glad that these people had an excellent experience at such a stressful time. There is still a small percentage of people (8%) who travel without insurance and my guess is that it is due to the expense. This is a false savings; please, please get your travel insurance, otherwise, you should only travel within Canada. Our health is improving, too – 94% rate their health as good to excellent. This is helped by the fact that 89% of us are having an annual checkup with their family doctor. Ninety-five per cent have never consulted a naturopath practitioner for health-care services. Newspapers are no longer our primary source of news; only 12% read paper. Fortyone per cent rely on the television and 38% get their news from the internet. Ninety-four per cent are shopping online and are doing so with credit cards that collect rewards points. And more than 66% are communicating with relatives by text message and email, as well as the telephone. Fifty-five per cent are surfing the net on a smart phone or tablet and more than 35% have used a rideshare service such as Uber or Lyft. I should point out that there is a bias to our survey, in that it only represents the thoughts and wishes of those who chose to fill out this survey. This time around, we received more than 10,000 responses, which is very high when compared to other surveys, so we believe our answers to be statistically very representative…and our snowbird lifestyles ARE the best. You just proved that with your answers! 12 | www.snowbirds.org

Forgiveness is vital. Its angry and fierce absence within contemporary discourse has turned social media, and even the greater public conversation, into an increasingly cold and dark place. Whether it’s a circus-like glee at the fall of a celebrity, or the comforting pleasure of watching a stranger’s life unwrap and decay, this grim schadenfreude has all the subtlety of a mob with pitchforks. Some will say that it was always thus – and we only notice now because of electronic immediacy. But I’m not sure that’s true. A new puritanism seems to have emerged and it has infected not just the extremes, but also the mainstream. Past failings, sometimes from generations earlier, are dug up by people as though it was their main task in life to identify such errors. Characters are assassinated and futures smashed. How ironic that in an age in which sin is an unmentionable word, its accusation is ubiquitous. Those processes became particularly relevant back in June when Archbishop of Canterbury Justin Welby said that Prince Andrew is “seeking tomake amends,” before adding “I think that’s a very good thing.” Welby encouraged society to be more “open and forgiving” in general and “to step back a bit.” He qualified all of this by emphasizing that “issues of the past in the area of abuse are so intensely personal and private for so many,” and “it’s not surprising there are very deep feelings indeed.” The reaction to his statement was of course hardly enthusiastic, and an episcopal spokesperson soon clarified: “The Archbishop was not referring specifically to Prince Andrew when he said we must become a more forgiving society. He was making a broader point about the kind of society that he hopes the Platinum Jubilee inspires us to be.” Indeed, perhaps Welby’s intentions were misconstrued. But however laudable the general theme of forgiveness, the optics of this specific case weren’t so good. Prince Andrew withdrew from public life due to his friendship with convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein and, in a civil sexual assault case earlier this year, paid millions to settle with Virginia Giuffre, whom Epstein had trafficked – and whom Andrew had claimed never to have met. I feel a little sorry for the Archbishop, because his deeper argument is sensible and timely. But the context was bound to get him into trouble. The essence of forgiveness is that it’s part of an equation, a symbiosis, and a response to a series of actions that should occur when we’ve failed or erred. First comes open and transparent admission. Not a perfunctory “I’m sorry if I offended…,” but a candid acknowledgement that an error or even a crime was committed. It’s difficult to prove or demonstrate authentic contrition, but this is where the next three steps come in. First of all, penance. I’m reluctant to sound overly religious here – despite being an Anglican priest – but there should be some sort of price paid, whether it’s tangible or otherwise. Suspension perhaps, or a reaching out to a victim – and an openness to listen to criticism, even if it might be painful and humiliating. Then, change. Not a cosmetic difference, but a transformation – with evidence that progress has taken place. NoMaoist declaration, but a proof – even if only to friends and intimates – that a lesson has been embraced. This might sound formal and formulaic but I’ve seen it work magnificently as a cleric, and also as a father and a husband. Don’t believe the Valentine’s Day cards about how love means never having to say you’re sorry – love is saying you’re sorry, but involves apologizing properly, and with more than words. Finally, an effort needs to be made to repair the damage done and to compensate for harm and pain caused. It’s never easy – it’s sometimes rejected. But it’s always acutely necessary. This isn’t about Prince Andrew or even the Archbishop of Canterbury. It’s about a culture that is digging itself into a dysfunction of satisfaction through condemnation, and hardening the arteries of the communal heart. Ultimately, and tragically, that causes more harm to the many accusers than to the few accused. We all need to be able to say that we’re sorry and, if sincere, all need to assume that we’ll be treated with respect and understanding. I’m so very tired of the shouting and the screaming, the judging and the hating. We really do have to do better, before it’s just too late. Opinion with Michael Coren CSANews | FALL 2022 | 13

West Greenland is not just green. Buildings in the town of Ilulissat are as colourful as red, blue, orange, purple and yellow crayons. They face Disko Bay, which brims with dazzling white and menthol-blue icebergs. Most of these fanciful ice sculptures calved off the Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier. The most prolific glacier in the Northern Hemisphere, it generates so many icebergs that, if melted, they would supply NewYork City with water for one year.They flow from the glacier along the 60-kilometre-long Ilulissat Icefjord just south of the town into the North Atlantic. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fjord stretches from the Greenland Ice Cap (which covers 80% of Greenland’s land area) to Disko Bay. We arrived in Ilulissat on an Adventure Canada High Arctic Explorer cruise which departed fromKangerlussuaq, a former U.S. military base. Charter flights from Toronto brought us to Kangerlussuaq Airport – Greenland’s primary flight hub. Before boarding our ship to cruise north to Ilulissat, we photographed an airport sign that showed flying times to places around the world. We were six hours and 45 minutes from Los Angeles, but only three hours and 15 minutes from the North Pole! Greenland to Canadian Arctic Archipelago Cruise Discover friendly communities, fascinating cultures and intriguing history on this scenic High Arctic journey Story and photos © Barb & Ron Kroll 14 | www.snowbirds.org Travel

Located 350 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, Ilulissat is the third-largest town in Greenland with a population of 4,700. Its name means “iceberg” in the Greenlandic language. The 190 passengers (mostly Canadian, but also American and European couples and solo travellers) on our ship were eager for closer views of the icebergs. We donned flotation vests and boarded Zodiacs (rubber inflatable boats) to circle around the magnificent icy flotilla formed from fallen snowflakes 10,000 years ago. The most beautiful icebergs were turquoise, created from ice which was so compressed that it no longer retained air bubbles. Some were as large as islands. Others were smaller, but shaped like whimsical castles with spires and caves. When a passenger asked if we could explore one of the icy caverns, our Zodiac pilot declined with a warning: “Icebergs can tip or calve unexpectedly.” Circling and swimming fulmars and gulls captured our attention as we returned to Ilulissat. They couldn’t resist the fish tidbits tossed from boats by fishermen as they cleaned their catches of turbot (Greenland halibut). We Deliver! WINTERING IN FLORIDA? by Truck For more information about our services call: We pick up your vehicle from your doorstep and deliver it to your winter destination… and get it safely back home when you’re ready. www.torontodriveaway.com The Premier Driveaway Service in North America! I N T E G R I T Y • H O N E S T Y • C O U R T E S Y 416-225-7754 Toronto Drive-Away Service Nationwide Inc. TRUSTED Since 1959 Iceberg odyssey CSANews | FALL 2022 | 15 Travel

Among its engrossing displays, we discovered tupilaq – mythological Greenlandic monster figures carved from animal bones, antlers and tusks. Equally mesmerizing was an image of a six-month-old male mummy, one of eight 15th-century Inuit mummies discovered in 1972 at Qilakitsoq, a West Greenland archaeological site. We also viewed exhibits of Greenlandic history, such as a drinking horn from theThule ancestors of modern Inuit people, as well as models of traditional Greenland kayaks. Leaving the building, we were delighted to see a group of local people paddling similar narrow kayaks amid the icebergs in Disko Bay. From the deck of our ship, we observed one of the kayakers practise a Greenland roll. This lifesaving manoeuvre allows kayakers to skillfully use their small oars to resurface capsized kayaks in the freezing water. As we explored the town on foot, we were astonished to see so many sled dogs. (Ilulissat has as many sled dogs as people.) We were also surprised to see a woman wearing the Greenlandic national costume as she walked along the street. “I’mwearing it for my son’s first birthday celebration,” she explained. “We wear traditional dress at festivals, holidays, weddings and special occasions.” Another woman greeted us from her balcony as we walked to the Ilulissat Museum. A display inside allowed us to closely examine the brilliant multicoloured beads on the shoulder covering (nuilarmiut) of Greenlandic women’s traditional dress, as well as the floral embroidery on the costume’s sealskin boots. The museum is housed in the birthplace of Knud Rasmussen (1879-1933). The polar explorer and anthropologist was the first European to cross the Northwest Passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans by dogsled. Greenlandic culture Mummies and mythological monsters 16 | www.snowbirds.org Travel

As we cruised north of Ilulissat, we gathered on the decks to photograph a floating parade of icebergs along Greenland’s west coast. After travelling for 60 kilometres, the captain stopped the ship for an expedition landing. (The captain can cancel excursions because of weather, pack ice or lurking polar bears, but he can also arrange stops in places where ships have never visited.) It was a great opportunity to explore the tundra. Some of us hiked to the five-kilometre-wide Eqip Sermia Glacier. Frequent explosions shattered the silence around us as chunks of ice calved off of the glacier, creating noisy splashes of water as they landed. Expedition staff set up a scope so that passengers could scan the landscape for wildlife. Many of us focused our camera lenses on the miniature tundra plants. Crouching close to the ground, we photographed the polychromatic carpet of leaves, lichens and wildflowers. As we walked over Labrador tea plants, their woodsy scent wafted through the pollution-free air. Voyage of discovery CSANews | FALL 2022 | 17 Travel

A cultural presentation during our visit to the Baffin Island community of Mittimatalik (Pond Inlet) offered more opportunities to learn about Inuit culture. After listening to traditional singing and storytelling, we watched an elder demonstrate the lighting of a soapstone oil lamp. Boredom was not an issue during our 30-hour crossing of Davis Strait between Greenland and Baffin Island. We watched documentary films about the regions we visited and attended workshops about Inuit art. A highlight of Adventure Canada cruises is the team of marine biologists, archaeologists, ornithologists, geologists, historians, artists, musicians, photographers, botanists, authors and scientists who accompanied us. Their informative lectures and on-site commentaries enriched our excursions. One-third of the experts on Arctic expeditions are Inuit from Greenland and Canada. They enlightened us about their way of life, both on-board and on shore. Jayson Kunnuk, one of the cultural educators on our trip, for example, captivated us with his grandfather’s stories about walruses and polar bears. On the tundra, he identified wild, edible plants such as mountain sorrel and crowberries. Learning experiences Meeting the locals In the community hall, passengers purchased handmade sculptures, prints and other locally made crafts directly from the artists who created them. We especially enjoyedmeeting some of the settlement’s 1,555 residents as we walked along the streets. One mother described how her traditional amauti (hooded parka) featured a back pouch for carrying her child. Two girls asked if they could photograph us, explaining that they were happy to have visitors. 18 | www.snowbirds.org Travel

Leaving Mittimatalik, we cruised along Lancaster Sound (Tallurutiup Imanga) – one of Canada’s newest National Marine Conservation Areas and gateway to the Northwest Passage. Passengers gathered on the decks with binoculars to look for narwhal, beluga and bowhead whales that feed in the area. We saw no whales, but watched a walrus hitching a ride on an ice floe. A fewminutes later, the captain announced: “Bowheads are all around us. I’ll anchor the ship so that you can board Zodiacs.” We’ll never forget our excitement as a 90-ton bowhead surfaced like a submarine and exhaled just metres from our Zodiac. “Its mouth is as large as an open single-car garage door,” explained the marine biologist who accompanied us. On the northern border of Tallurutiup Imanga, 50,000-square-kilometre Devon Island abounds with wonders. At Croker Bay, curious ringed seals popped their heads out of the sea to watch us zip between awesome icebergs on Zodiacs. SNOWBIRD CAR GO FLORIDA Retired airline pilot offering door to door personalized concierge service between Toronto and Florida for a flat rate. SERVING THE G.T.A. Transport your vehicle or RV with peace of mind and give the keys to someone you know and trust. 1-647-334-5601 www.snowbirdcar-goflorida.com Whales ahoy! World’s largest uninhabited island Some of the powder-blue and snow-white blocks of ice towered over us. Others were as small as toy boats. Our expedition leader hauled a small bergy bit into our Zodiac. Crystal clear, it resembled a glass sculpture. Back on the ship, he chopped it up. As the 10,000-year-old fresh-water ice cooled our drinks, trapped air bubbles made them fizz like champagne. CSANews | FALL 2022 | 19 Travel

Equally poignant are the graves of three of the 129 sailors who died during Sir John Franklin’s attempt to sail through the Northwest Passage from 1845 to 1848. They passed away while overwintering at Beechey Island, just off the southwest coast of Devon Island. Fromour landing spot on the uninhabited island, we trudged over gravel to the desolate burial site. Next to the three mariners’ wooden grave markers is a fourth one, belonging to a crew member of the 1850 McClure Arctic Expedition − one of several British search efforts to determine the fate of Franklin’s quest. Bronze plaques on the grave markers identify the men and their ages – all in their 20s and 30s. Devon Island also preserves remnants of human history. On-board archaeologist Latonia Hartery helped us identify collapsed Thule qarmat homes, constructed with rocks, bowhead whale skulls, jaws and ribs. “Thule ancestors of today’s Inuit first appeared about 800 years ago, spreading out across the Canadian Arctic and Greenland,” she explained. “Their qarmats had semi-subterranean bases with partial stone walls and sod roofs. Thule people often covered the whalebone frames of their qarmats with layers of animal skins.” At nearby Dundas Harbour, we discovered more recent history at an abandoned 1920s Royal Canadian Mounted Police outpost. Inside, we found an old sewing machine, a Coleman oil-burning heater, metal beds, paperback books, a jar of peanut butter and rusted tins of tomatoes on the shelves. As we viewed the small cemetery outside, we pondered the loneliness of the two RCMP officers stationed here for two years at a time. Surrounded by a white picket fence, it encloses the graves of two RCMP constables. The place – now part of the Beechey Island Sites National Historic Site of Canada – had a haunting, but sacred feel to it. Other than the crunching of our feet on the gravel, the only sounds came from the wind and occasional screeching of gulls. We walked for two kilometres, past a few cairns and memorial monuments, to the ruins of Northumberland House. Members of the 1852 to 1854 Belcher Expedition built it as a supply depot for Franklin’s crew, in case they returned to Beechey Island. Weathered boards, rusted tin cans and barrel staves are all that remain today. Bringing history to life Beechey Island discoveries 20 | www.snowbirds.org Travel

KITCHEN & BATH RENOVATIONS CONDO & HOME RENOVATIONS CUSTOM HOMES & ADDITIONS SERVICES WE OFFER INCLUDE: TORONTO MOVING TO A NEW CONDO? 416.495.8282 goldenbeehomes.com 2022 BILD AWARDS RENOVATOR OF THE YEAR & CUSTOM HOME BUILDER OF THE YEAR Licensed, Registered, & Insured Design Build Firm WE KNOW HOW DIFFICULT IT CAN BE TO DOWNSIZE FROM A HOME TO A CONDO, BUT IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE! LET US HELP YOU BRING YOUR MEMORIES HOME Wildlife, wilderness and the unexpected Back on the ship, we cruised west to Resolute (Qausuittuq) for our charter flight to Ottawa. The settlement of 200 people on Cornwallis Island is an aviation hub and staging point for tourism, High Arctic research and military activities. With no vegetation, Resolute looks desolate. But it’s not lifeless. “A polar bear wandered through town this morning,” said the bus driver who drove us to the airport from the shore where Zodiacs transferred us from the ship. “It got into a shed and stole some frozen meat.” Whether you’re visiting Greenland or the Canadian Arctic, some things are guaranteed – wildlife encounters, cultural enrichment, historical treasures, splendid scenery and unforeseen surprises. Resources The next High Arctic Explorer cruises are July 25 to August 5, 2023 and August 5 to 16, 2023 on the Ocean Endeavour. For information or brochures, contact Adventure Canada at 1-800-363-7566 or visit www.adventurecanada.com Barb & Ron Kroll publish the trip-planning website www.KrollTravel.com CSANews | FALL 2022 | 21 Travel

Hack Ayers Three Unforgettable Friends Hack On a lovely fall day in 2005, we were meandering behind truck traffic as we slowly climbed Pine Mountain just south of the Kentucky/Tennessee border. I was trying to find a special rock formation known locally as the Devil’s Racetrack, but was unsure how far south of the border we needed to be. At mile marker 147, the interstate peaked at 2,247 feet and within a fewmiles, we reached the exit which everybody who has driven I-75 remembers – Stinking Creek. But still no “Racetrack.” It was becoming late in the day, so we decided to spend the night a few more miles down the road at Caryville, and ask the locals for directions. We chose the Hampton Inn and, in the morning, met Hack Ayers, a gregarious Southern gentleman who was very much a legend in this mountain area. Born in Stinking Creek and a third-generation moonshiner (bootlegger), Hack knew the back roads better than any revenue officer and was able to show us his secret route through twisting and almost undriveable mountain roads, to the Racetrack. After checking in, it took us at least an hour to reach our room!The corridors of Hack’s hotel were fascinating. All of the walls exhibited his huge collection of original historical memorabilia from the Titanic first-class menu to newspapers with huge headlines declaring VE Day and the Bombing of Hiroshima. But the most unusual artifact had to be a framed brown leather jacket worn by his bootlegger father, “High Johnny” Ayers, complete with a bullet hole; here’s the story. On a sunny Cumberland Mountain day, High Johnny collected 25 cases of moonshine whiskey from a still and hid them in a chicken coop at the family farm. Since there was no school that day, he asked seven-yearold Hack if he would like to help. As they finished, High Johnny and Hack were ambushed by five armed and drunken revenue agents who allegedly opened fire, riddling the property with 32 bullets. One caught High Johnny just below his heart and Hack watched in horror as his daddy dropped to the ground, dead. A close examination of the displayed jacket shows the bullet hole just above the zipped chest pocket. Over the years, we got to know Hack, who shared many stories about his life in the mountains. To local folk, moonshining was not considered a crime; given the poor economy of the times, it was the only way to earn a living and put food upon the table. While dining out one evening, I felt something moving under the table and, before I knew it, I was holding a Mason jar of moonshine whiskey; Hack sat across the table with a look of innocence on his face. Later, he shared an old movie of his Gran’daddy’s last likker (sic) run; here are some outtakes from the film. Sadly, Hack passed on to the Big Still in the Sky in January 2020 and the hotel corporate office told the new owner to remove all corridor memorabilia, since it was not consistent with their corporate image. A sad loss to those I-75 travellers who have enjoyed Hack, his stories and fascinating inn decor. We have been driving Interstate-75 to Florida since the 1960s, starting in the early years when sections of the route were still under construction. Our normal “snowbird” drive took three days, but this changed substantially in 1992 when we started seeking interesting roadside stories for our new travel book, Along Interstate-75. It was during these in-depth research trips that we met our “Unforgettable Characters”...three special people whomwe would like to share with you in the following stories. Hack Ayers by Dave Hunter Over 30 years of I-75 research trips, Kathy and I have met many interesting people…but none as special or unforgettable as those in the following stories. 22 | www.snowbirds.org Travel