Back in the early 1980s when I began my working life as a journalist, I was sent to report on the troubles in Northern Ireland. More specifically, I was asked to write about the loyalist or Protestant paramilitaries, mostly the UDA (Ulster Defence Association) and UVF (Ulster Volunteer Force). These were hardline, mainly working-class men – although there were many women in their ranks, too – who had taken up an armed conflict not only with the IRA and other republican (mostly Roman Catholic) groups, but also with anybody whom they considered an opponent. That included ordinary Catholics in the wrong place at the wrong time. Though claiming loyalty to the crown and to Britain, they were no friends to the British Army either. It was a deeply frightening time; I was in many ways out of my depth, but I learned a lot. Frankly, some of the lessons I’d prefer to forget. Peace was being discussed and the miracle of a ceasefire and a new Northern Ireland would come about before very long, but what I saw was violence, hatred and suffering. To an outsider, the differences between the two tribes – because tribes is what they were – were minimal and often difficult to understand and appreciate. But not to the locals. They seemed to be able to tell the difference within moments. Both sides illustrated their beliefs, campaigns, martyrs and heroes through large and elaborate wall paintings and murals. They were sometimes extraordinarily artistic, but their messages were violent and tribal. A newcomer to Belfast or Derry would immediately know if they were in a loyalist or republican area by the illustrated propaganda. In my time there, I saw a man shot and killed just a few feet away from me, saw the results of a bombing and met people who had the most appalling wounds from attacks and fights. All this had happened close to the murals. I was once in a pub behind one of those things where an increasingly drunk man told me, “What we need in this country is someone like Hitler, but not so extreme.” I’m pretty sure he meant that Catholics rather than Jews should be targeted. I wanted to respond, even laugh, but knew who he was, knew his friends and that they were heavily armed. They seldom attacked journalists, but alcohol and automatic weapons is a dangerous mixture. So, whenever I see these things as background to yet another documentary or drama I cringe, even feel nauseous. It’s one of the reasons I haven’t returned in 40 years. But the chance came along and I took it. My hotel in Belfast was just a few metres away from Sandy Row, a centre of loyalist activism. I walked there for hours, spoke to an old friend, saw the change but also lamented the repetitions of the traditional fears and screams. Some of the paintings have changed, but most of the messaging is eerily similar to past times. Yet today, there are coach trips to see the murals – Catholic as well as Protestant – and people are taken by guides to look at the “artwork.” The ones calling for peace and reconciliation tend to receive more attention than those deeper in the various communities, where the words are as belligerent as they ever were. Even so, part of me is delighted, euphoric that most of the violence is over, and that people from Canada and anywhere else in the world can look and learn. But then there’s the other section of my experience and psyche, one that is revolted by voyeurism or "tragedy tourism." I’m not blaming those who come to look, but I also want to scream, “People died here, people were maimed here, children lost parents here!” Not centuries ago, but in living memory. For every wall painting speaking of peace and claiming that “enough is enough,” there are far more promoting a very different message indeed. On the Newtownards Road, there’s a small park devoted to Ulsterman CS Lewis – my hero – and a mural with his picture welcomes people. But travel further and the loyalist paramilitaries have dominated the area with their narrative. Lewis would be revolted; so am I. So much has been achieved but so, so much has still to be done. I pray with all of my heart and soul that the job will be completed and that total, authentic peace will grow and prosper. The people there deserve it. People everywhere deserve it. Opinion with Michael Coren CSANews | WINTER 2023 | 13
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