Gardening by Judith Adam The new low-scale magnolias cast almost no shade and carry multiple ornamental features useful in large gardens, where they can be pared to frame the corners of a structure, or arranged in a cluster of three on a broad, expansive lawn. In a small garden space, one magnolia can be the central feature underplanted with hostas or spreading sweet woodruff (Galium ordoratum) that will flower white in spring and stand green through 10 months of the year. Mid-summer rejuvenation for tired plants There comes a point in early July when flowering annuals and perennial plants are tuckered out and flopping over with exhaustion. The garden has probably suffered through a few weeks of heat and drought, and plants that flowered exuberantly in May and June now don’t have enough energy to continue. This dive into exhaustion can easily be reversed with quick action to help plants revive for another generous display in August through to October. Perennial plants flower, produce seed heads to complete their cycle and then stop flowering. Quickly removing the heads of spent flowers before seeds form can extend the blooming cycle with an additional two to four weeks in plants such as purple coneflower, rudbekia, liatris, coreopsis, butterfly weed and garden phlox. Flowering annuals that arrived as perky box plants may now be sadly barren of flowers on long limp stems. Cut them back by 50 per cent of their length, and feed with a water-soluble fertilizer. Use a fertilizer formula with a higher middle number representing the phosphorus that promotes bud formation. Feed them a second time two weeks later, to promote new growth and buds that will carry through until the first frost. Tea and shrub roses can be fed to encourage a late summer into autumn display, applying fertilizer preferably by the last week of July. Use a granular or water-soluble product, again with a higher middle number to encourage bud formation. (A fertilizer with balanced numbers, such as 10-10-10, is also acceptable.) Cut back only weak spindly growth, leaving sturdy wood to carry the next flush of buds. If possible, don’t cut back any cane growth in autumn when flowering has finished. Anchor canes to bamboo stakes and let them remain through winter, then remove dead wood in spring when fresh red buds are swelling. This will help to minimize cane loss. Colour surprises in other magnolia-breeding programs have found a new cutting edge with the introduction of yellow flowers. The pyramidal hybrid ‘Butterflies’ (zone five) is loaded with a fleet of bright yellow flowers bursting out from bare branches in midspring. The vibrancy of colour and chaotic blossom display draws attention in cool spring landscapes, especially when cardinals and blue jays sit on the branches in bright sun. Another yellow is ‘Elizabeth’ (zone five), with fragrant yellow flowers tinged yellow-green at the base and presented in regal display along extending branches. Just like true aristocrats, these magnolias are consistently attractive in every season. CSANews | SUMMER 2023 | 45
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