Travel Winter haven for snowbirds Even four decades ago, the Algarve was a haven for winter-weary visitors who stayed in whitewashed hotels along the coast. With more sunny days than the Riviera, the Costa Brava and California, the Algarve is now an even more popular long-stay destination for Canadian snowbirds. Albufeira captivated us with its North African-style, white-stucco houses decorated with whimsical chimneys. Some were tall and shaped like minarets. Others were made from elaborate pottery. We strolled along the waterfront, watching fishermen in colourful boats mend nets. Today, pastel-hued apartments, restaurants and bars cater to visitors, while diving and dolphin-watching boats join fishing vessels in the marina. Praia da Rocha, a wide, sandy beach three kilometres south of Portimão was (and still is) popular for sunbathing. We prefer the smaller beaches farther west along the coast. Tides have erodedmany of the rocks separating the beaches into jagged monoliths and arches. High cliffs − pierced by lagoons and sea caves − fringe other beaches. We spent many happy hours exploring the stretches of golden sand. Meeting the locals Nowadays, there’s no shortage of restaurants serving residents of the many high-rise hotels along the Algarve coast. Back in 1974, few shops sold bottled water. We pumped our drinking water from roadside artesian wells. Buying produce in local markets and fresh seafood fromfishermen (three pounds of sole for 80 cents!) gave us many opportunities to meet the locals. We especially enjoyed the friendly Portimão fishermen, who showed us how they mended nets with long, handmade wooden needles. They also showed us crates of sole, red snapper, skate, crabs, sea bass, cod, eels and sardines ready for auction. (In 2019, buyers watch several auctions simultaneously on the internet and place their bids online.) All work in Portimão stopped the following day. We inadvertently witnessed history-in-the-making in 1974, when Portuguese citizens celebrated their first May Day in nearly 50 years. April 25, Freedom Day, is now a national holiday. It commemorates the Carnation Revolution, which ended 48 years of dictatorship and ultimately changed the government into a democracy. 1974 1974 1974 1974 1974 CSANews | SUMMER 2019 | 19
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