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Travel Famous floral scent After viewing Roman ruins below street level, we walked to OldMarket Square, which is surrounded by pink, yellow and coral-hued buildings. An accordionist strolled from café to café, serenading patrons with schmaltzy music. Its outdoor tables were a comfortable place to enjoy Cologne’s famous Kölsch, a top-fermented beer served in tall cylindrical glasses. In our cabin after dinner, we found a small bottle of fragrant 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. Originally created in the 18th century, the floral essence still carries the city’s name today. It was one of many little surprises that passengers enjoyed during the cruise. Spared by Allied pilots Back on theDa Vinci, we cruised to Cologne where cathedral towers soared over us and the Hohenzollern Bridge which spanned the Rhine. For walks, we separated into slow- and fast-paced groups. Inside the cathedral, our guide showed us a reliquary which, according to legend, holds the bones of the Three Wise Men. She explained that most of Cologne was destroyed during the Second World War, except for the cathedral. It was spared by Allied bombers, who needed it as a navigational aid. Standing beside brilliant marigolds outside the cathedral, we gazed at sculptures and gargoyles decorating the UNESCO-designated site. Relics of medieval times Our next destination was Andernach, where we enjoyed an after-dinner stroll around the town’s medieval walls. On the riverbank, we admired a rare horse-powered round crane, built in 1554 to load millstones onto ships. Dated markings beside the wooden door revealed the Rhine’s high-water levels. Even older is Neutor Gate in Linz, one of Germany’s prettiest towns. We walked under its spike-tipped portcullis, which closed vertically to secure the town when it was attacked inmedieval times. Above the cobblestone streets, crimson geraniums burst fromwindow boxes on half-timbered buildings. Pretty wroughtiron signs identified shops, restaurants and cafés. 22 | www.snowbirds.org

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