Travel Good food, a massive fortress and more surprises highlighted our visit to Almeria. Located on Spain’s southeast coast, Almeria boasts 320 sunny days annually and daytime temperatures of 17 degrees C. in January. Its desert-like landscapes are popular film locations for TV serials and movies, includingGame of Thrones, Lawrence of Arabia, Cleopatra, A Fistful of Dollars, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, Never Say Never Again (with Sean Connery as James Bond) and How I Won the War (starring John Lennon). The hilltop Alcazaba dominates Almeria. We climbed a long series of steps to the 13th-century entrance of the Moorish citadel, one of the largest fortresses in Europe.Towers, walls and gates punctuate three restored enclosures. Inside a reconstructed 14th-century Arab home, we viewed murals of people spinning wool and drinking tea at low tables. From its crenellated parapet walls, we enjoyed sweeping views of the flat-roofed city buildings. We were surprised to see purple-flowering jacaranda trees, agaves, prickly pear cacti, date palms, pomegranate and carob trees growing inside the fortress. In the early 17th century, the Spanish no longer needed a military fort, so they created gardens inside the walls. With its buttressed towers, Almeria Cathedral resembles a fortress more than a church. As church bells resounded, we examined decorations on its façade. A bas-relief of angels feasting informed 16th-century Christians that they would live in paradise if they lived good lives. Thoughts of eating made us hungry, so we walked to the Central Market to join locals and visitors lunching on fresh seafood. Clean, well-stocked counters displayed fresh fish, Iberian hams, sausages, cheese, wine and colourful fruits and vegetables. Café cooks prepared food that shoppers bought to eat at tables in the market. The red shrimp sautéed in garlic butter was scrumptious. A fiesta surprised us as we left the market. Singing and drumming drew our attention to a procession of residents. Several women and girls wore flowers in their hair and flamenco dresses. Some carried castanets and waved fans. Many of the men and boys wore bolero hats. We followed the crowd to a silver-, candle- and flower-covered shrine on a cart, pulled by two oxen decorated with silver and red-velvet headpieces. Revellers occasionally paused in their celebrations to visit street-side tapas bars for drinks and snacks. It was an unexpected but delightful glimpse of Andalusian culture. Almeria Far Left: The hilltop Alcazaba dominates Almeria Left: Decorations on cathedral façade Below: Procession follows a silver, candle and flower-covered shrine on a cart Women with flowers in their hair and flamenco dresses Fruit stand in Central Market 20 | www.snowbirds.org
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